In this gorgeous local travel guide to Rome, Laura Itzkowitz, editor and regular contributor to Untapped Cities, tells us how to truly enjoy the Eternal City just as the Romans do.
On your first day here, seeing this is a must: The first thing you should do in Rome is get completely and utterly lost in the labyrinth of narrow cobblestoned streets that make up the historic center. I recommend starting at Piazza del Popolo, where the three major roads fork out in a trident. Via del Corso is the most direct route to traverse the city, but if you stay on it the whole time, you’ll miss all the most important monuments, fountains and piazzas. Take to the side streets, meandering along past the gelaterias and stationary shops, and you’ll eventually find yourself face to face with the Pantheon, where you must sample the in-house roasted espresso at the Tazza d’Oro and a gelato at Giolitti (the smallest size comes with three flavors). Continuing on through the Campo Marzio, which is full of the most charming shops selling vintage jewelry, perfumes, brightly colored leather goods and things, you’ll want to make your way to Piazza Navona. There you’ll see Bernini’s fountain of the Four Rivers. If you can find your way back to Via del Corso, you’ll end up at Piazza Venezia with a clear view of the Colosseum and the Roman Forum. Wander back towards the Trevi Fountain and Piazza di Spagna, the famous steps where everyone gathers, then take Via del Babuino back to Piazza del Popolo and you’ll end up coming full circle.
For a glimpse of daily life, I recommend this form of transportation: Everyone imagines that Romans all ride around on Vespas, which is not true, but most Romans own a car or a scooter. There are only two subway lines, though they’re currently working on a third, but the construction keeps getting delayed because they’re constantly coming up against archeological ruins! The buses and trams go everywhere the subway doesn’t, but they’re less reliable, especially at night. Fortunately, the historic center is compact enough that you can easily walk through most of it. In fact, you’ll have to go by foot in the smaller streets, as some are too narrow for vehicles to pass. That’s why Vespas are so useful in Rome!
I had my best night’s sleep at: Hotels in the historic center tend to be quite expensive, but you can find good deals near Termini Station. It’s very central and a major transportation hub, which makes it a good place to stay. Couch surfing has become very popular in Rome lately as well. Be wary of the lure of cheap hotels outside the city in Prima Porta. They may advertise their proximity to Rome, but it’s very difficult to get there via public transportation (expect to make a minimum of 2-3 transfers). Buses stop running at midnight (sometimes earlier) and you’ll end up spending the money you saved on a hotel room on a taxi instead!
Best place to find artisan handicrafts: Trastevere is the most artsy neighborhood in the city, and is beloved by Romans and visitors alike. On the streets around Piazza Trilussa, where people gather for a beer on the steps when the weather is warm, you’ll also find small independent artisan boutiques. Stroll through Trastevere towards Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere and you’ll find quirky jewelers, perfumers, shops selling clothes and leather goods, and plenty of cafés and trattorias.
Local celebration not to be missed: June 2nd is the celebration of Republic Day, and in Rome they celebrate it like Independence Day with a parade of epic proportions that starts at Piazza Venezia, the former seat of the Italian government, which makes its way through the city with plenty of fanfare.
For a more bucolic/green setting I escape here: The Villa Borghese gardens look like a heart on the map with the point just above Piazza del Popolo. There’s a little lake where you can rent a rowboat and plenty of grassy spots where you can lounge the day away. But the most beautiful gardens are right next to the Galleria Borghese, the world-famous art museum that houses artwork by Bernini, Canova, Caravaggio, Bronzino, Raphael, Titian and more. In the spring and summer, the gardens are full of orange trees and flowers growing among marble sculptures. A little-known fact about Villa Borghese: there’s a semi-hidden replica of Shakespeare’s Globe Theater where they perform Shakespeare in the summer!
The art/music scene is alive and well here: The Flaminio area has seen a lot of growth and development recently. The Zaha Hadid designed MAXXI hosts a roster of important contemporary artists and the nearby Renzo Piano designed Auditorium Parco della Musica is home to many concerts and festivals. The Ponte della Musica (Music Bridge) was recently constructed to unite the Flaminio neighborhood to the northern part of Prati, which lies north of Vatican City.
Where the locals get tipsy: Everywhere! There’s not a neighborhood in Rome where locals don’t get tipsy! Trastevere is a hotspot for nightlife, as well as Monti and Testaccio, where there are lots of clubs. In Trastevere, my favorite bar is Freni e Frizioni, where for 7€ the expert bartenders will shake up a creative cocktail using any ingredients you like. In Monti, I recommend Tre Scalini for good cheap wine and a crowd so large it often spills out the front door and into the street. The Drunken Ship in Campo dei Fiori is the chosen spot for expats and study abroad students, but it’s not the most authentic experience. For the discerning oenophile, there’s the Antica Enoteca in Via della Croce, near the Spanish Steps. For people watching, get a table at Caffè della Pace near Piazza Navona, where celebrities like Al Pacino, Robert De Niro and Francis Ford Coppola hang out when they’re in Rome.
Most ludicrous stereotype about the people here: Romans are either Guidos or devout Catholics living in the shadow of the Vatican. There are many Guidos here, and there are certainly plenty of Catholics, but you simply can’t reduce Italians to these stereotypes. They do say “ciao bella“ but that doesn’t necessarily mean they’re flirting with you. Roman men just as easily say “ciao bello“ to their male friends. It’s a term of affection, not a come-on. However, if they call you bellissima, that’s a whole different story!
*For more in our “Get Cultured” series, check out last week’s guide to Grand Cayman and be on the lookout for the next installment in the series.
Laura is an editor and regular contributor to Untapped Cities, a web magazine dedicated to helping people rediscover their city. She prides herself on being not only an avid traveler, but also a cultural chameleon, after having lived in Paris and Rome and soaking up the language and customs. She’s currently based in New York City, where she frequently writes about art and cultural events, and translates from both French and Italian. You can follow her at Untapped Cities and on Twitter: @lauraitzkowitz
Feature photo by Moyan_Brenn_BE_BACK_on_10th_OCT
Gusto and Piazza Navona photos by Fabienne Zwagemakers
Other photos by Laura Itzkowitz