By Jesse Dart
From its humble beginnings as a movement started in the small town of Bra, Italy in the 1980’s, to its apex at the Salone del Gusto and Terra Madre event, which occurs every two years, Slow Food has become a major player in the worldwide food movement. Bringing together delegates and members from around the world for five days of meetings, seminars, conversations, tasting sessions and education about a range of topics, Terra Madre is the extension of the philosophy of Carlo Petrini, the founder of Slow Food. This event acts as a place for like-minded people to share ideas, to gain enthusiasm and to realize that in all parts of the world people struggle with the same issues related to our food system.
Salone has been held every two years since 2004 when the first event took place. Since then, each odd year brings a different Slow Food event including Cheese, Slow Fish and various other Terra Madre days that help to keep the ideas and interest flowing.
What Slow Food has always tried to achieve, with mixed results, is a careful balance between acknowledging that traditional foods produced by artisans have become very sought after in the world’s marketplace, but that those traditions and producers need to be protected, their stories recorded and recipes remembered. This is where the two events meet, at the cross roads of modernity and tradition.
The aspect of pleasure is never to be forgotten within the Slow Food community, for what is eating without the pleasure of enjoying what you’re consuming? The Italian visitors to Salone seem to be able to suspend their normal unwritten eating rules for this event, forgetting standard dining times, mixing sweet and savory, building a lunch out of samples, enjoying granita before pasta. But this year as opposed to two years ago, I felt an urgency in the mood of people waiting in line for a sample; their eagerness was motivated by a feeling of need, a feeling of entitlement to taste each product. Long lines of people queued for a small piece of Prosciutto San Daniele, a piece of scamorza or a small glass of prosecco.
Slow Food is providing this for the people of Italy and the people of the world in an attempt to refuse the modernization and globalization of what we eat, and to help us remember and continue to move ahead in a way that is sustainable, ethical, moral and most of all pleasurable.
Photo by _gee_