By Kimberly L Bryant
Exploring southern India thoroughly could easily take years upon years; the south is filled with numerous cultures, cuisines, dialects, and landscapes. Moving from one state to the next sometimes feels like traveling to different countries altogether.
In Kovalam, I often went down to the beach and played in the water with the locals who take holidays there. Enveloped in a palate of colors, my view was relegated to a muddle of figures of all sizes mashed together. Adorned in bejeweled saris, the wet fabric clung to smooth, brown skin. Drips flew in every direction as the crowd converged in and out, pulsating like a vibrant flower.
Train travel in India is often talked about, as it really is a journey unto itself. The trains in the south were a bit more relaxed than in the northern parts of the country, though still fairly chaotic. Everyone moved in their own rhythm; children yawned, mothers held hands, and grown men leaned against one another, easily sinking into strange skin. Open windows invited the cool air, welcomed by our collective breath, as we rolled along, crammed together.
The natural scenery of the south is an utter treat for the eyes. Between the unique backwaters of Kerala, the prehistoric-looking gigantic rocks of Hampi, and the lush, green hills of Munnar, there is truly something for everyone, regardless of our individual tastes.
The state of Kerala is known for its backwaters, a network system of interconnected canals containing over 900km of waterways. The system is made up of five main lakes and 38 rivers with numerous linking canals, both manmade and natural. The backwaters consist of both freshwater and seawater, creating a unique ecosystem that is home to many species including crabs, turtles, kingfishers and of course, myriad golden-tinged palm trees. Throughout these intertwining waterways there are villages, towns and cities, such as Kollam, Alleppey and Kochi. Between the latter two lies the largest of the lakes, spanning an area of 200km.
Food is so integral to Indian culture; the states of the south are no exception. My favorite southern dishes were veg biryani and veg uttapam. Many people who travel India become vegetarian if only during their trip. This is because meat served here is generally quite iffy when it comes to sanitation practice; it is very easy to get sick from eating improperly cooked or ill-prepared meats.
Fortunately, the veggie dishes in India are phenomenal, and these are just two of hundreds of healthy, delicious options. Veg uttapam arrived on a thali-style silver dish, a rice pancake made with orange and green veggies inside. Dipping sauces of carrot chutney, sambar, and korma are placed in the dish’s recesses to complement the light rice pancake. I’d always immediately chuck aside the unnecessary cutlery, tearing into the hot uttapam with both hands. The messy nature of most Indian food means making edible creations, and eating your work.
Traveling in India is filled with small moments of beauty where you might least expect it. The country can be quite challenging, though the south is notoriously more relaxed than the northern states. Perhaps it has something to do with the abundance of beautiful beaches.
The encounters I remember most included watching tiny children playing in the shallow water with their parents. One moment stuck out in particular — a young girl playing with her father whose joy was so palpable that I almost wept. His large, toothy smile, wildly crooked, radiated with pure love. As he held his daughter’s hands up high, she cackled with glee at the water lapping up against her shins in its repetitive rhythm. Tiny sparkling bracelets hung from her wrists, almost right up to her delicate, little elbows. His unabashed pleasure in the moment overwhelmed me with its heartfelt simplicity. The sun, dimmed in the hazy mist, shimmered as if solely for them. She was in heaven; the scene was utterly idyllic.
Amongst the hectic feel that India inherently has, there are these quiet moments of beauty and peace; the juxtaposition between these two extremes only serves to make both sides more pronounced.
There are countless styles of traditional dance throughout India, many of which are still practiced and performed today. In Kerala, Kathakali is one of the more popular of the traditional classical Indian dances. Highly stylized, this dance drama is characterized by elaborate costumes, detailed gestures and complimentary live percussion music. The songs are sung in the language of Manipravalam, a mixture of Tamil and Sanskrit. Most songs are set in Ragas based on Carnatic music – heavy on microtones – with a distinct plain-note rendition. The latter is known as Sopanam, the typical musical style of Kerala. The actors of Kathakali endure lengthy preparation in makeup and costume before each performance. The show demands great concentration and stamina from its performers.
Fishing is also something that remains a respected tradition in areas such as Kovalam. The fishermen here rise early every day to prepare their nets and head out to sea to catch the day’s breakfast. The fish are used to sell at both the markets and nearby restaurants that line the beach. Watching the men fish in this particular way is quite fascinating; their hands-on approach is the antithesis of commercial fishing methods.
While I didn’t eat very much fish while I was there, the second of my beloved southern cuisine is another vegetarian dish: veg biryani. This rice dish is traditionally served as a huge mound on plate. Hidden beneath the abundance of freshly cooked, seasoned rice are chunks of sautéed vegetables like potato, carrots and onions abound in the middle. Flavors from saffron, coriander and mint mingle with biryani masala in this mildly spicy dish that glitters with oil. I usually devoured the heaping serving of home-cooked comfort food almost instantly. This traditional, authentic Kerala meal of giant proportion costs about 60R (less than 2USD) at local eateries in Kerala.
Perhaps the place that reminded me most of my home country, Canada, was Munnar because of its wonderful fresh air and natural scenery. Plenty of lush, green hills and areas to walk for hours, this city is actually known for its tea plantations. But you don’t need to be a tea connoisseur to take advantage of its natural beauty; simply spending time relaxing in the cool air is worth it.
This only begins to cover the very tip of the palm tree when it comes to exploring the cultures and landscapes of southern India. In a country as vast as it is colorful, India begs to be discovered. The country’s slogan, “Incredible India” has merit; there is so much to experience in this beautiful land.
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