Experiencing Terroir at the Open-Air Food Market

By Chelsea Boorman

As I approached the organic open-air food market on Boulevard Raspail, I was immediately welcomed by the smell of lavender. The scent was so strong and lovely that I nearly did a double-take just to make sure I was in Paris, not Provence. As I walked further into the market, the smells of cheese, fresh fruit, and made-to-order paella and crepes wafted through the air. Walking through the open-air food market gave me the chance to experience the sights, scents, and tastes of France in the span of an hour.

For the French, food and identity are inseparable. French people associate themselves with regional cuisines more so than with the physical location of where they were born: Bretagne = crepes, cider, and oysters; Languedoc/Toulouse = cassoulet; Provence = citrus, olives, herbs, and ratatouille; Normandy = seafood and Camembert; and Midi-Pyrénées = Roquefort cheese. The same concept applies to wine, in that wines and champagnes in France are named after the region where they were produced.

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And so, because food is such an important part of the French experience, a trip to one of the city’s many markets is a must. The organic open-air food market on Boulevard Raspail in Saint-Germain-des-Prés is the perfect place to experience the concept of terroir, which is used to describe the country’s diverse geographic features that contribute to the unique flavors in its cheeses, milk, wine, nuts and other food products.

Connected to the concept of terroir is France’s appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC), which protects certain agricultural products by adhering to a set of rules concerning its production. For example, Roqeufort cheese can only be labeled as “Roquefort” if the milk used to produce it comes from certain sheep that live at a certain elevation; if the sheep eat food produced in the same area; and if the bacteria used to produce the cheese comes from caves in the Roquefort region. A quick visit to the market will allow you to taste, smell and see the difference in quality for the goods that are labeled as AOC.

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For those visitors who are visiting the city for a short length of time, visit the market and buy fresh fruit, veggies, and cheese, or buy a combination of freshly prepared dishes, such as paella, polenta cakes, tarts, pastries, and fresh squeezed orange juice for a picnic in the nearby Jardin du Luxembourg.

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In addition to fresh food, the market features an assortment of flowers, homemade soaps, and accessories such as scarves, purses and jewelry — perfect for a gift or souvenir.

What are you waiting for? This market is open every Sunday from 9:00 am to 3:00 pm.

Le Marché Biologique Raspail
Boulevard Raspail from rue du Cherche-Midi to rue de Rennes

About the author

Chelsea is a student at Johns Hopkins School of Advanced International Studies where she is studying international economics and foreign policy. Living in France at a young age and being a dual U.S. and Jamaican citizen fostered her love for travel and for learning about different cultures through food, politics, language, and the arts. In addition to food and traveling, her passions include reading, writing, identity politics, and the outdoors. To read more about her travels, check out her blog: http://twentysomethingandabroad.com/.

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