By Peter Gyulay
When traversing the globe, a common phenomenon seems often to occur: the warmer the climate, the warmer the people. And this is also true of Laos. After you pass the quintessential frowning customs officers that you would see anywhere in the world, you will be greeted time and time again with the greeting “Sai bai dii” from friendly warm-hearted Laotians.
This was very welcoming for my wife and I when we visited Laos during our time living in China. During our winter vacation we left the cold in search of warmer and more exotic worlds, which we found in our travels through the north of Laos.
A must see on any Laos trip is the UNESCO listed city of Luang Prabang. The former capital city is full of history. Exploration can begin at the Royal Palace Museum. Afterwards, a great view can be seen of the whole city from the mountain opposite the palace. There is a temple on the mountain and some Buddhist statues. Sunsets are crowded, but make it feel like you are participating in a collective sun ritual.
Wats – Hinayana Buddhist Temples – scatter the city. The Wats are a spectacular sight. They are patterned with gold, and majestically pointed to the heavens. There are a multitude of resident monks. If the traveler rises at 6am, monks can be seen on the main street in a procession collecting alms. In Laos, Buddhism is interwoven with life – monks pop up in internet cafes and buses, and tourists and monks coexist at Wats.
The main street of Luang Prabang is filled with restaurants, and even has café/bakeries. So flash is some of the inner décor that you would think you are dining in New York. At night the already quaint street becomes even quainter as the night lights enhance the streetscape. Conjoining the main street at night is a market overflowing with all kinds of colorful Laotian handicrafts. There are also an abundance of street stalls selling baguette sandwiches, coffee and tropical fruit shakes.
Two must see sights nearby Luang Prabang are the waterfalls. There are two falls to see: Sai Falls and Kuang Si Falls. Both falls have soft blue water flowing into pools that you can swim in. The Kuang Si Falls are higher and more spectacular and hence more visited. The Sai Falls are smaller but a good place to spend some hours relaxing.
There is also opportunity in Luang Prabang for service to the community. At a place called Big Brother Mouse you can volunteer to teach English and can buy books to give to children.
If it’s finally time to leave Luang Prabang, which is one of those places where you can easily linger, Muang Ngoi is a good place to head to. It is an idyllic little village on the Mekong River. As you cruise up on the boat your sight will be mesmerized by the lush green mountains jutting from the land and the deep blue sky hovering in purity above. Stepping off the boat and into the village, you’ll see bungalows lining the shore. The quiet main street hums with relaxed movement. This is a cheap, friendly and quiet place to stay. On my visit, a young Japanese woman had been staying there for 3 weeks.
From Muang Ngoi you can walk an hour to some nearby caves. The caves are deep enough to go into, but not deep enough to get lost in. Walking past the caves and for another hour or so you can visit a village. Along the way you’ll see flowing streams, rice fields, cows and buffaloes, trees and sky. It is a great landscape to wander through.
One hour drive from the Chinese border, along one of Laos’ best stretches of road, is Luang Namtha. It is a small town renowned for the surrounding wilderness. Travelers often visit Luang Namtha for guided treks. It also abounds with many different villages of different culture and ethnicity. There are lots of guesthouses and restaurants and it is a very relaxing place to stay. Exploring the surrounding villages on bicycle or motorcycle is definitely worthwhile.
A great two day trek is the Akha Trail. This trek takes you through lush green forest. You sleep the night near the village of the Akha people. Visiting the village you will see archaic life still being lived – wooden huts, animals, and people living life like they have since before the encroachment of technology. You will also be dazzled by the colorful dress of the women.
Our trip to Laos was an amazing adventure. Yes, there were frustrations like not being able to communicate, and missing buses without being able to buy a ticket in advance for the next day. But those things were dwarfed by the incredible scenery, friendly people and relaxed vibe of the country. We want to return.
